Back in the USA

We are back for a short while.  Getting the boat painted in Florida and then back to Brunswick.
Maybe later in the summer we will do a short trip up to the Cheasapeak.

Back in Australia

After 8 months away, we are back in Australia till January 2014 to see friends and family.

Jamaica

Loved this country.  Friendly people and relaxed living.  Hey Mon!!  Tried the local Jamaican food and of course lots of rum and the well known Blue Mountain coffee.

Visited Bob Marley museum in Kingston after a torturous journey over the Blue Mountains but very scenic.  Too frightened to take my eyes off the road to take any photos.

In Montego Bay visited a ‘Great House’.  These were originally plantation houses whose wealth came from sugarcane and the labour provided by 2,000 slaves in the case of Rose Hill Great House.  Rose Hill is a private home that has been restored by a wealthy American couple who now open it to the public and for functions.  No one sleeps there as there is reputed to be ghosts.  The famous owner of the house ‘Annie Palmer’ had three husbands and killed them all along with killing and torturing the slaves before coming to the same end by the hand of one of her slaves.  It has been recently reported that this is not a altogether true story but it is entertaining and draws the tourists in.   Despite all of the above it is a very nice house with a spectacular view over the Carribean.

There were once 700 or so of these houses but now something like 16 are still there after the slave rebellion of 1831

Cuba

What a place to see. 

Near the Marina at Cienfuegos on the south coast is a Moorocan inspired building initially to be used as a Casino but now a restaurant.   One afternoon whilst strolling around we found this ‘masterpiece’ of architecture and for $2 each could go in see the building, listen to music and get a rum and coke.  This was a bargain as opposed to the thoroughly inedible meal we had in the centre of town for $30.  We even found a Mercury car for sale in the street for $15,000!! Gringo sucker price – the real one would most likely be half that.   We see lots of these old cars in the streets along with the more recent Russian branded Ladas and other makes.

Havana is a place with a lot going on.  They are very enthusiastic abut renovating buildings in the old town and upgrading infrastructure in the streets.  There are building works everywhere and some are completed such as a square that once had an ugly 50’s carpark in it and is now restored to its original along with all the buildings surrounding it.  There are still lots of buildings in various states of decrepepitude  and there is a special names for those buildings that just cant stand up any more and suddenly fall over.

 It is an easy town to get around and is not yet full of tourists.  Wait till the Americans come though and it will probably change to something worse.  The one gain with the Americans coming might be that the food will get better in the restaurants.  They are a happy lot of people and are quite stoic given the hardships that they have had to put up with over the last 50 years.

Trinidad another city that we visited is described as having gone into a somnolent and life threatening coma early in the 19^th century and thus has been saved in its original form.  It was the centre of the sugar growing area and was devasted by fire and fighting after the two Wars of Independence.  It is now a tourist centre but not in the awful overdone way these places can become.  In fact the whole of Cuba is still not overly done by tourism yet.

The cars must be mentioned.  Even though I am not interested in cars per se, I was blown over by the old Chevvies, Mercury Buicks and other makes that ply the streets with people hanging out of them – being used as private cars and as taxis.   The other form of transport in the towns is not an evil smelling oil polluting bus but a horse and cart with 6 or so people in the cart.  The buses do exist but not to any great number.   Also the streets couldn’t cope with the traffic.  On the country roads, me still get around by horse as well as the horse and cart.

San Blas Islands Panama

After being in Shelter Bay Marina at the end of the Canal for far too long, we finally left for the home of tyhe Kuna Indians in the San Blas Islands towards the eastern end of Panama nr the Columbian border.  This is almost an autonomous state within Panama and they live on a chain of islands off the coast.  Their main claim to fame are the Molas that they sew - a bit like quilting but much more details, finer hand stitching and many layers of cloth used.  As with all these local crafts they come in various qualities.  Mostly these that are sold in the islands are much better than the ones sold on the street in Panama City.

They live on tiny islands from about the size of two house blocks to some that would be equal to a few Melbourne streets.  They have their gardens on the mainland and sail by dugout (Ulu) each day to attend to their produce.  This can take up to a couple of hours depending on the distance and the direction of the wind.  Wonderful sailors in these small dugout treetrunks that are remarkable unbalanced.

CARTAGENA COLOMBIA

Cartagena Colombia situated on the Carribean coast of Colombia - a true walled city

surrounded by thick walls built of crushed coral and local stone in the 16^th century to protect it from the attacks of such persons as Sir Francis Drake – not a pirate but a privateer commissioned by Elizabeth 1 to go and plunder.  It took two centuries to complete due to repeated attacks from storms and pirates  before this the town was completely unprotected.

All the riches of Colombia came down the river from the interior and were collected at the Fort San Felipe before shipment back to Spain.  This fort was impregnable and was never breached.

The gold displayed in the Gold Museum is from the Sinu Indians who inhabitated the Bolivar region before the Spanish conquest.

PANAMA CANAL

Finally able to go through the Panama Canal.  Up first thing in the morning to collect our line handlers and our canal Advisor, Carlos who tells us what to do.  As there had been some misshap the day before when our name had slipped off the list of those wishing to go through, we were in a special lockage ie we didn’t have to go through with a large ship.  We had a tourist boat two tugs a power fish boat and us –  lots of room.  David was a nervous wreck with anticipation.  Anyway all went well and Carlos and the line handlers were great.  We saw the works for the new canal alongside where the Panamax ships will travel.  We did have a Panamax ahead of us in the lock ahead and he took up all the space both sideways and lengthwise.  The canal is 110’ wide and these ships are 106’ so there is only 2’ each side left.    They are guided by the mules which run a railway alongside the locks.

Interest along way was the jail that Norieaga is residing in , the crane that was built by the Germans for their submarine fleet during WW2 and ended up in Panama and used for the lifting of the gates on the locks.  Only four built and after the war this one was requisitioned and is the only one still being used.

We passed  under the Centenario Bridge which built by a consortium from Australia and Holland and the Bridge of the Americas at Panama City

PANAMA CITY

We have finally arrived in Panama City.  We had an eventful trip down from Golfito in Costa Rica visiting a number of the Panamian Islands on the way.  We were in Coiba National Park anchored off Isla Rancheria in a fast flowing passage when asked to pay $200/night .  We said no way and left after one night – lovely anchorage but it wasn’t the Hyatt.  The trip up the Gulf of Panama was a bit torturous as we had 3 knots of current and a head wind of 25 kts against us – we felt we were good when making 4 knts over the ground.
We are gathering ourselves together here before we make the trip through the Panama Canal to the Carribean

EARTHQUAKE

We experienced an earthquake whilst in Tapachula of 7.5 magnitude - the building we were in swayed around us.  The epicentre was only about 200 or so miles away.  Interesting?

NICARAGUA

We are at Puesta del Sol Marina in an estuary just over the border with Honduras.  Had an interesting sail down the coast from Mexico passing Guatemala El Salvador & and a small portion of Honduras.
We spent a night in El Salvador illegally (not checked in) at and island in the Golfo de Fonseca called Meanguera - just lovely with a black sand beach a few pangs on the shore and palm trees beneath lush vegetation.  Cool breeze at night.
At dawn we saw the volcanos of Guatemala in the distance.  This whole coast is littered with volcanos - we even have one near the Marina.p

 HAVE RETURNED TO MEXICO

Back at the boat again and found it in good shape after the Mexican summer and 90% humidity.
Before we set off we decided to do a few local trips - one to a coffee plantation and another to Guatemala.  We are only about 15 mins from the border so we decide to get a bus to Guatemala City and then to the ancient town of Antigua.  We stayed in a delightful B&B and walked around this small town.   We took a day trip to Lake Atitlan which is surround by volcanoes.  We had our own moment with a 7.5 earthquake which made the building sway around us.
The coffee plantations (Fincas) are in the mountains behind Tapachula - they import Guatemalans for the work as the Mexicans wont do it.  It is much cooler there and we spent a pleasant day looking at exotic flowers grown for the flower markets .  This was started as a side line several years ago when the price of coffee fell.
 

RETURNED TO AUSTRALIA

After an interesting trip inland in Mexico, we have come back to Melbourne for about 5 months to see family and friends.
We have left the boat on the coast nr an incredibly hot place called Tapachula.  See on sidebar Google map where it is.  The daily temperature is early 30’s but the humidity is around 90%.  We are only a few miles from the Guatamala border.  The marina is new and well protected BUT the water is dirty because of all the factory emissions further inland,  Well, can’t have everything.

We travelled to San Cristobal de la Casas in Mayan country up in the mountains - interesting old town with a lot of the original town intact and Mayans walking the streets with tourist items for sale.  Side visit to Chumula - very much still a Mayan town with a main Church where rituals with chickens are still held for sickness, good weather, crops etc.  Then on to the Mayan ruins at Palanque which date back to 226BC.  They were discovered in the 18th Century but not until 1949 that excavations started and only now 10% has been explored.  It is a constant struggle to keep the jungle at bay and not covered the ruins now. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palenque
 Mexico City next for a feast of Museums and churches - lots to do and see there with the Archeological Museum being the highlight.

I have put photos on the albums on the side bar

ANOTHER JUNGLE TRIP

Well,  jungle is what the American guide books call it – but to us Aussies it is a mangrove swamp.

It was another trip for Humphrey (Boggie) and Katherine – armed with crocodile fighting equipment ( so the guide books told us – don’t go swimming in the water – there are crocodiles abounding), food and water supplies in case we got stuck in the mud or worse still lost in the mangroves, GPS,  VHF radio, though who we would call is a mystery,  plus lots of fuel for the outboard.

We ventured in only to find benign surroundings, not a crocodile in sight.   The only danger was being run over by a racing panga coming from the other direction in the narrow waterways.  Maybe he was racing away from a crocodile.

Interesting trip none the less.

Boggie did marvellously when exiting over the bar at the entry to the estuary and didn’t even get one splash into the boat when waves threatened to engulf us.

STILL IN LA CRUZ

After two weeks we are still in La Cruz nr Puerta Vallarta - great little village - almost still in its original state despite a new Marina being here for 5 years. Cobble stone streets, people pull out tables and chairs in the evening and put them at the edge of the street and serve food virtually from their kitchens. Cheap, tasty and good.

HEAT AT LAST !!!

We have arrived in La Cruz on Banderas Bay (nr Puerta Vallarta) and IT IS HOT - at last - thought it would never happen - I think they are having a late season here. We have left the desert behind and we are now in green - it is called jungle here but really it is only rainforest

THE SEA OF CORTEZ

Had a quick look at the Sea going up about 150 nm to Puerto Escondido. One of our interesting visits was to the Mangroves at Amortajada on Ilsa San Jose. We felt we were Audrey and Humphrey in our own African Queen. Beautifully quiet and serene. They were quite massive sitting right behind the beach - we entered at low tide so had to row to get into them.
The abandoned house at Timbabichi was once owned by a Mexican who found a giant pearl in the Sea and after selling it in La Paz built this once magnificent house in the middle of nowhere and established a fishing fleet. After his death the family didnt know what to do with it so, as is the Mexican way, did nothing and the house has been left to fall apart and locals helping themselves to what is left.
The Salt Mine was abandoned many years ago but there is no information as to what happened.
Another Mexican story is what happened at Puerto Escondido? A massive amount of money has been spent turning a very protected beautiful natural harbour into a Marina - but as usual is not finished. Someone ran off with the money!!! Not a great number of boats there but perfect location. The nearest town is Loreto which is 14 miles away but no way to get there other than by car!

FOR YOU GARDEN LOVERS

Today we visted an amazing cactus garden on the edge of San Jose del Cabo – we were taken around the gardens by a Mexican named Juan whose English was about as good as my Spanish. Anyway we muddled along and were shown thousands of different types of cactus all laid out in an interesting and orderly fashion. Some of the golden rows had 100 cactus to a row and 1000 to a section plus many sections resulting in 30,000 - 40,000 cactus. Some of it was laid out in a manner known to the Mayan Indians in the south. One of the little unknown treasures that travellers come across.

MEXICO

We are in Mexico at last - we spent Christmas and New Year in San Jose del Cabo at the bottom of the Baja Peninsular..
We spent an uneventual trip down the peninsular from San Diego with the weather getting warmer and drier. The Mexican desert is just lovely and the local town also lovely. Pictures are in the side bar.
After I return from Australia we will go further up into the Sea of Cortez till its too cold again and then cross over the mainland side and go south again.

AMERICA CUP WORLD SERIES - SAN DIEGO

Just been watching the World series for the America Cup in San Diego - 45' Catamarans - these are just test boats for the actual boats which will be 72' catamarans when the America Cup is held in San Franciso in 2013. Nine teams are competing and at this time New Zealand is leading - the speed is phenomenal - 20 kts in as little as 10-12 kts actual wind speed. See photos on sidebar.

NEW TRIPS IN CALIFORNIA

We returned in September 2011 and drove down the coast from Washington State to San Diego.
We met Melanie and family in Monterey and drove down the Big Sur in the south. Just like the Great Ocean Road but a lot longer. The name came from the Spanish when they occupied the area and called it 'the big land in the south'. Melanie went to Disneyland while we returned to the boat in San Diego. Lots of work to be done before we leave for Mexico at the end of November.
Check out my new photos in the sidebar.